By Frederick J. Krantz
A Star is Born.
By Frederick J. Krantz
A Star is Born.
Maurizio Ciminelli and Glen Manfra have done it again. Following their astonishing success with Amici Palm Beach's mecca for the fortuned and fabled they now have launched another champion, Galaxy Grille, which, as its name and pedigree suggests, promises to be another example of superb dining as well as the new lair for local and visiting lions. In fact, any Palm Beach bon-vivant who has not heard of or eaten at this new high-end eatery must have just returned from Pluto.
Galaxy Grille's offerings are a departure from the Northern Italian treasure trove found on Amici's menu. The cuisine is termed "Global, New World." As the throngs of Galaxy Grille customers which already include international celebrities, politicians and sports icons have discovered, they can dine on such riches as wok-seared baby-back ribs, tequila/lime-marinated ceviche, grilled tuna (with a sweet chili/ginger sauce) and a bullring-sized paella.
When asked why he and his partner decided to open a restaurant featuring Global, New World cuisine, Chef Manfra responded, "Maurizio and I grew up eating and cooking Italian food. We love it and we always will. But, we also like other kinds of food," he said, "especially Oriental and Mexican. So we put our heads together and came up with the Galaxy Grille concept. For me, since Galaxy's opening, working the two restaurants keeps the fun in cooking."
Recently, a friend and I dined at Galaxy Grille. The restaurant's sleek lines and retro colors resemble the interior of a space ship. Nonetheless, this spartan ambiance heats up once the tables fill and, on any given night, that's shortly after the doors open. After we glanced at the menu, we prepared ourselves to be dispatched to exotic locations.
Our meal began with two zingers: a warm duck salad with scallions, shiitake mushrooms, mixed greens and beansprouts tossed in a spicy ginger vinaigrette ($8.50), and a mosaic of lovingly arranged arugula, watercress and spicy sprouts regaled with crispy noodles, toasted coconut and a snappy red-ginger vinaigrette ($6.50). Since our dinner was launched so auspiciously, we toasted it with champagne: Piper-Heidsieck grand cru ($10.50 a glass).
Next came the metaphor for Galaxy Grille cuisine: Seafood, lemongrass and vermicelli soup ($12). Scattered with shrimp, scallops, Manila clams, prawns, mussels and assorted veggies, this masterpiece is not only a delightful assortment of worldly tastes and textures, it also is satisfying, constantly surprising and represents current cuisine at its most confident and innovative.
My companion's entrée, whole butterflied crispy fish ($24) that evening, it was striped bass was wok-fried and finished under the broiler. The fish, blessed with a haunting ginger/soy sauce, tasted so fresh and moist, it might have been just plucked from the ocean. My panko-crusted sautéed jumbo shrimp ($24.50), provided an opulent divertissement that boasted spinach, braised celery and a Grand Marnier mandarin basil sauce, possessed flavor that was as memorable as a lunar eclipse. To wash down these supernovas from the Galaxy Grille firmament, we chose a Pouilly Fuissé ($8.50) and a Pouilly Fumé ($5.50 both prices per glass).
For dessert, we sampled crêpes stuffed with cherries and marscapone cheese and an apple tart that was crispy, spicy perfect (both desserts, $9). Our dinner at Galaxy Grille was such an enchantment, we were sorry when we returned to earth.
Galaxy Grille's Seafood, lemongrass vermicelli soup current cuisine at its most confident and innovative.
Galaxy Grille, 350 South County Rd., Palm Beach (561) 833-9909.
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