By Frederick J. Krantz

A tiny fragment of Bordeaux is situated in northern Boca Raton. It is a restaurant called Auberge Le Grillon located on Federal Highway just south of the Delray Beach city line. The restaurant, whose name in English means "The Inn of the Cricket," is housed in a tree-shaded cottage, reminding one of the picturesque wayside inns on less-traveled roads, meandering through the Dordogne or Gironde départments in Southeast France.

Since it opened in 1978, Auberge Le Grillon has offered distinctive European cuisine and ambiance, which have attracted many loyal customers and garnered much critical acclaim. Recently, the 1996 Zagat Guide named this Boca Raton landmark one of the top five restaurants in Palm Beach County .

Not long ago, a friend and I went there for dinner. As we approached the restaurant, the bright rays from the setting sun were gilding the tall trees surrounding the building. The bushes and pavement outside the entrance were glistening from a sudden shower that had finished just minutes previously. Inside Auberge Le Grillon, however, the atmosphere was a pleasant contrast — intimate, warm and welcoming. The beige walls were dotted with original oil paintings in gilt frames, and the tables — spread throughout two, spacious adjoining dining rooms — were covered with crisp, pink linens and set with gleaming silverware and glasses. We felt as if we had stepped into a Renoir painting.

Pierre, our waiter that evening, arrived with a plate of a smooth, tangy duck and veal pâté along with a selection of small pieces of toasted bread — croutons — to spread it on. "Bon appétit," he said, smiling, as he placed the plate on the table. Originally from Dijon, Pierre made our evening memorable with his gracious and attentive service.

After Pierre brought us champagne cocktails ($6.50 each) and fresh crusty bread with butter, we studied the menu. We noticed, just like the restaurant's ambiance and service, many of the items offered were classics that reflected a time when dining out was not rushed or complicated. Shortly afterwards, we were joined by Auberge Le Grillon's 41-year-old chef, James M. Donahue. Chef Donahue has been at the restaurant for just over a year. Before that, he worked at select restaurants and county clubs in northern New York State and southern Florida.

We asked him why he maintained this culinary discipline at a time when many chefs were forsaking classic traditions and venturing into more courageous territory. "The Haute Cuisine is something that is not prevalent in the industry these days, and that's a shame," Chef Donahue said. "As an entity, it seems to be dying out — but not entirely."

He explained that most trendy restaurant-cuisine styles that are in vogue today — such as Floribbean and Nouveau — are based firmly on the Haute Cuisine. "After all," he said with a twinkle, "you can't play pop music without knowing the classics."

Although Donahue certainly will continue this season with Auberge Le Grillon's popular classic Old-World menu, he also will feature nightly specials that are a bit adventurous. "Here at the Auberge," he told us, "we have a 'Progressive European's style which adheres to the principles and integrity of the classics but, at the same time, produces dishes more in line with today's emphasis on health and balance."

Our meal began with two exquisite appetizers. The elegant lobster/shrimp bisque — veloute des crustacés aux cognac ($6.25) — was painted with crème fraîche stripes and offered an opulent flavor that testified to Chef Donahue's culinary adroitness. Equally impressive was the Escargot "Papillon" ($8.25), six snails with Pernod, garlic butter and Brie (all wrapped in phyllo), arranged in a butterfly design on a plate with red and green peppers, orange sections, mange tout and a Madeira demi-glace.

Between courses, to freshen our palates, Pierre served an intermezzo, raspberry sorbet — another stylish touch to the evening.

My companion selected a truly Patrician offering for her entrée, Les medaillons de veau aux morilles ($29.95), sautéed veal medallions with wild mushrooms, served with a subtle sauce divined from Madeira and cream. My main course, also an aristocrat, sautéed Dover Sole ($32.95), was listed on the menu with a Mousseline glaçage — a Hollandaise sauce and whipped cream, augmented with lobster meat and chives. Pierre informed me the sole also was available meunière, prepared in butter, parsley and lemon. He suggested I order the fish cooked in that method with the Mousseline glaze on the side. "Many of our guests request this," he said.

All entrées at Auberge Le Grillon came with the restaurant's signature vegetable garniture: a spectacular platter of fresh cauliflower and broccoli Hollandaise, sweet-potato mousse, haricots verts, tomatoes, braised red cabbage and fettucine alfredo — each one cooked to perfection.

To drink with our entrées, we chose a white Burgundy: Pouilly-Fuisse, Joseph Drohin ($8.50 a glass).

Following a bit of encouragement from Pierre, we sampled two of the restaurant's desserts. Each was so delicious, our spirits soared to paradis. The noble profiteroles, stuffed with brandy/chestnut ice cream, were remarkable and the majestic, but atypical, Mont Blanc — made from chocolate and raspberry ice cream nestled in a deep-fried phyllo basket — sailed on an ocean of framboise coulis (both desserts: $5.95).

Auberge Le Grillon, 6900 Federal Hwy., Boca Raton, FL 33487, (561) 997-6888.