Since its early February opening, Sforza Ristorante — situated on Clematis Street — has become a leading player in the West Palm Beach renaissance.

I hadn't ventured into downtown West Palm Beach in many a moon. I read about its redevelopment — the fountain, the artists moving there in droves and the neglected properties being restored into Architectural Review prototypes.

It all sounded marvelous, I thought, and well worth my paying a visit.

On an early evening recently, a friend and I went down to Clematis Street for dinner at Sforza Ristorante. As we walked along the street toward the restaurant, we were impressed with how the area has changed. Not only did it project the feeling of being an artist's colony, but it also pulsated with the vitality only a city can offer.

As we entered the restaurant, we were struck by its charming disparate ambiances. On one side is the restaurant, where simplicity is the keynote. A terra cotta-colored wall is punctuated by occasional shaded lamps, pitching shafts of light towards the ceiling. The flavor is definitely Italian country modern. In the back, just outside the kitchen, a pizza bar boasts a tiled wood-burning oven.

On the evening we were at Sforza, the French doors across the front were open and several tables were placed outside on the sidewalk; each had a shaded candle. As the evening progressed, the atmosphere became more romàntico: The restaurant's lights were dimmed and the candles seemed to glow brighter.

Sforza's other side — the lounge — features a large and imposing dark wood bar. Behind it, against the wall, is an enormous stone fireplace with dark red velvet-drapes, hanging above it from a antique-looking metal rod. Positioned in the center of the parted drapes is Medieval-style metal sculpture. The flavor here is definitely late Norma Desmond.

We were seated at a table in the center of the room. Even though it was early in the evening, the tables, including those on the sidewalk, were almost full.

After we ordered a glass of champagne, Mumm Cuvée Napa (split: $7) a basket of warm sliced, crusty bread arrived. As we sipped our wine, we noticed several local celebrities were scattered around the room — politicians, real-estate tycoons, television newscasters and one high-profile attorney.

Shortly afterward, Sforza's 36-year-old executive chef, Charles Maida, joined us. Chef Maida, who sported a colorful beret with bright-red chili peppers printed on it, told us he was born of Italian-French parents in Martha's Vineyard. Before he came to Sforza, Maida was chef at Jupiter's Charlie's Crab and Chuck Muer's Key West Grill in Jensen Beach.

"Our cuisine is basically Northern Italian," Chef Maida explained. "Cooking is unique there — a blend of different foods that create interesting flavors. Sauces are not heavy because lots of mushrooms, herbs and tomatoes are used, and they virtually make a sauce on their own."

At Chef Maida's suggestion, our dinner began with several stunning appetizers incorporating a few ingredients that originate outside of Northern Italy. The succulent slices of seared, fresh yellowfin tuna, Tonno Ferri ($7.50), were cooked rare and served with wasabi and a soy/ginger vinaigrette. More Italian, but just as memorable was the Calamari Alla Griglia ($6) — tender rings of squid grilled and tossed in olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and diced fiery-hot peppers.

Chef Maida's bold stroke in the hors d'oeuvre dominion, however, was Lumache Con Salsicca ($6): a seductive blend of sautéed escargots and homemade sausage, with plum tomatoes, onions, garlic and fresh herbs. Maida's choice of elements is often refreshing and innovative, although he rigidly adheres to the rules of culinary grammar.

"When I suggested this dish to Dale," Maida said, "he thought it was a bit strange, but he went with it, anyway; now, it's a big seller."

My dinner companion and I were quite taken by the luxurious, velvety cream-of-mushroom soup ($3), which accorded the flavors of a host of different wild mushrooms, including portobello and porcini, and a bewitching whisper of pancetta.

Then, we sampled two elegant offerings.

The understated and classic Insalata Di Pepperoni ($5.50), assorted roasted sweet peppers — green, red, yellow — and eggplant slices, were nicely chilled and tossed in a red wine vinaigrette. Another noble dish, the homemade Ravioli Rovigo ($13.50), presented pillows of pasta stuffed with ground chicken and artichokes, arugula and sun-dried tomatoes, and, were sautéed in a light garlic-flavored chicken stock.

Entrées were equally compelling. Gamberi Inferno ($15.50) — sautéed large shrimp, cloaked in a spicy sun-dried tomato pesto, which was spicy, but never overwhelmed the shrimp's delicate flavor. The fresh char-grilled North Atlantic salmon fillet ($15.50) reclined grandly on a bed of wilted spinach, tossed in a citrus black-pepper vinaigrette.

Both my companion and I agreed that the braised veal shank — Ossobucco ($15) — was possibly the best we had ever tasted. The nutty-flavored veal was tender and invested with a smooth sauce divined from vegetables, tomatoes and wine.

With our meal, we chose two wines — an Italian: pinot grigio, Tiefenbrunner, Trentino ($5.50 a glass; $18 a bottle), and a California: chardonnay, Kendall Jackson ($6 a glass; $22 a bottle).

For dessert, André, our extremely considerate and knowledgeable waiter, brought us a tray of selections. He urged us to try the ricotta cheese cake; peanut butter pie, made with mascapone cheese; and the many-layered amaretto cake (all desserts, $5). Naturally, we tried them all. They were so wonderful that, afterwards, we felt we might have to do penance.

Sforza Ristorante, 223 Clematis St., West Palm Beach, (561) 832-8819.